Straight Buttonhole

Definition and Overview

A ne-muri buttonhole is a buttonhole with a straight slit in the fabric and the surrounding area reinforced with oversewing. It is a hole used to fasten a button, and its shape and application differ from an eyelet buttonhole, which has one side rounded and reinforced.

It does not refer to a type of button hole or button shank. The length and reinforcement method of a ne-muri buttonhole are considered according to the shape of the button used, such as two-hole buttons, four-hole buttons, and shank buttons.

Structure and Material Considerations

A ne-muri buttonhole consists of the slit, the surrounding oversewing yarn, and the securing ends that prevent fraying at both ends. If the fabric is thin, prone to stretching, or loosely woven, the area around the buttonhole is reinforced with fusible interlining or similar material to stabilize the shape.

The oversewing yarn can match the fabric color, or it can be used as a design feature in a contrasting color. The thickness, luster, and strength of the yarn affect appearance and resistance to wear, so it is selected according to the thickness of the fabric and the product application.

How to Express Size and Design

The dimensions of a ne-muri buttonhole are generally expressed as the length of the hole in mm. In addition to the diameter of the button to be inserted, the thickness, shank height, button shape, and fabric thickness are considered, and the length is set so that it is easy to fasten and not easily come undone by mistake.

Ligne is mainly a unit indicating button diameter, and mm is normally used for dimension control of the ne-muri buttonhole itself. In the specifications, stating the hole length as well as the direction of the hole, position, oversewing yarn color, and whether reinforcement is used can reduce misunderstandings.

• At the front opening, check whether the button position and hole position are aligned.
• At areas subjected to lateral load, check the hole direction and the stretch direction of the fabric.
• Before mass production, perform opening and closing tests with the actual button and fabric.

Main Applications and Tailoring Notes

Ne-muri buttonholes are used for button fastening in a wide range of garments, including shirt and blouse front openings and cuffs, jackets, coats, skirts, and pants. Because of their straight shape, they are characterized by a relatively clean appearance.

Repeated washing and fastening can cause thread breakage at the hole ends, fuzzing, and stretching of the hole. Handling in accordance with the care label, washing with the buttons unfastened, and using a laundry net are effective measures to reduce snagging.

Whether dry cleaning and ironing are allowed, and at what temperature, depends not on the buttonhole alone but on the fabric, interlining, and button material. Be careful, as applying a hot iron directly and strongly may flatten the oversewing yarn or cause fading in the fabric. Cracking and discoloration are mainly issues related to the button material.

Difference from Eyelet Buttonholes

An eyelet buttonhole is a buttonhole with one side rounded and reinforced, and it is used for thick coats, jacket lapels, and areas subjected to force. A ne-muri buttonhole is straight overall and is suitable for general button fastening, including shirts.

However, the choice is not determined by garment type alone. It is selected based on a comprehensive consideration of fabric thickness, design, button size, frequency of fastening, and sewing specifications.

Frequently Asked Questions